Double delight

11 October 2008 - The Senegal Experience - Diarmuid Macdonagh

THINK African holidays and the usual suspects leap to mind – safaris, the cities and beaches of Morocco and Tunisia, cruises on the Nile and the ancient wonders of Egypt.

Gambia has become popular in recent years, although its neighbour Senegal will barely register on most holidaymakers’ lists of prospective destinations.

But Senegal has been luring European visitors for decades and now it is the turn of the British to explore this fascinating country of the west coast of the dark continent.

Serenity Holidays has just launched its first-ever dedicated Senegal Experience brochure.

Serenity can tailor the holiday to your requirements, allowing you to spend some time in the Gambia and Senegal. The two countries have much in common, but the former was a British colony, while the influence of the French is evident everywhere in Senegal.

After spending a night in the luxurious Ngala Lodge in Gambia, I was up early for the trip to Senegal – and the journey itself was breathtaking.

Clambering into a 4x4 we headed for the ferry across the Gambia River. The bustling crowds vied for space with army trucks and heavily laden lorries, cars and livestock, but the passage was smooth enough.

The same could not be said of the roads as we headed for the border and beyond. We spent more time off-road as much of the “highway” had been washed away and a huge EU-funded re-building programme was under way.

But there was something wonderfully liberating about the journey as we swept along, alternating between road and salt plain, scrubland and road again as the sun beat down.

We headed north for a heady six hours until we reached the spectacular Le Royal Lodge, which sits alone on a beautiful beach on the northern fringes of the Sine Saloum Delta, exuding luxury, with 28 suites with top-class fittings and exquisite detailing.

With the focus on quality, relaxation and tranquillity, the Royal Lodge does not go in for loud entertainment but can arrange excursions into the surrounding areas, fishing or birdwatching trips.

It is a state-of-the-art beach resort with an infinity pool, swim-up bar and stunning beachfront location – but it would be criminal to travel all this way just to lounge by the pool. The scenery is breathtaking and ever changing, and the area is rich in wildlife.

Close by is another hotel in a spectacular setting. Lodge des Collines, built by a French couple, is an eco-friendly lodge nestled on a tributary of the Saloum. It offers a series of stunning rooms, from tree-houses built into the baobabs and low huts on stilts over the river to adobe-like bungalows carved into the small hill on which the lodge is situated.

Joal-Fadiout is a village at the southern end of the Petite Côte of Senegal. Joal lies on the mainland, and is well worth visiting for the incredible expanse of fish smokeries and busy harbour. Fadiout, linked by a bridge, lies on an island of clam shells, and is universally known as Shell Island. It is also the birthplace of the first president of Senegal.

The island has a mixed Christian and Muslim population, with cemeteries side by side on an adjoining island.

You can also visit the animal reserve at Bandia, where you can see a wide variety of typical African savannah animals including giraffes, white rhinos, waterbucks, forest buffalos, wart hogs, crocodiles and several species of monkey.

We headed back south again towards the border to spend a few days in the heart of the Sine Saloum Delta. This is a vast 180,000-hectare area that encompasses a national park.

Formed where two rivers converge, it’s a region of great diversity consisting of a unique estuarine environment, glorious beaches, mangrove swamps and sand islands.

The Keur Saloum Hotel is perfectly placed on the banks of the river with mangroves stretching into the distance. Set among the well-kept grounds are 48 African-style round bungalows with air-conditioning and en-suite facilities. A recent addition has been six luxurious new suites in a fantastic location overlooking the jetty and the river.

The hotel also has its own pool and tennis court. It has been attracting anglers and birdwatchers for many years, but even if you’re not tempted to try either pursuit, a trip aboard a traditional pirogue is a must.

I headed off with the hotel’s boatmen to explore the mangroves and stopped at a riverside village that has probably changed little over many generations.

Toubakouta lies on the hotel’s doorstep and offers some pleasant places to eat, but the hotel itself has a great open-plan bar and restaurant serving great fresh food.

Again, although the hotel has a great deal to offer, a holiday here is all about getting out and exploring the area and meeting the people.

The region is magical, and quite unlike anything you will have experienced before.

If you want a more traditional beach resort holiday Senegal Experience is expanding its repertoire this year and the area around Saly, around 40 miles north of the delta, is well established, having attracted French and Belgian holidaymakers for many years.

But it was time for me to head south again and back to the Gambia for the last few days of my two-country experience.

I returned to the sumptuous surroundings of Ngala Lodge, a hotel that really is the archetypal oasis of calm amid the hustle and bustle of this part of the country.

The emphasis here is very much on individual service, and the restaurant is renowned as one of the best in the country.

The main building of Ngala Lodge was originally a colonial mansion and the grandeur of the area is still very much in evidence.

Ngala enjoys a magnificent setting looking out from its cliff-top position across the swimming pool and gardens to the ocean beyond.

The area boasts some top-class restaurants, great beach bars and the lively Senegambia Strip offers some good bars and a few clubs.

Factfile

Senegal Experience offers seven nights at Keur Saloum from £832 per person, based on two sharing a room, half-board, including return flights (Gatwick-Banjul), transfers and all taxes and fuel surcharges. The company also offers seven nights at Le Royal Lodge from £1,158 per person, based on two sharing a suite, half-board, including return flights (Gatwick-Dakar), transfers and all taxes and fuel surcharges. Call Senegal Experience on 0845 338 8706 or visit senegal.co.uk
Gambia Experience/Senegal Experience offers a twin-centre holiday incorporating three nights at Ngala Lodge and four nights at Keur Saloum from £2,032 per person, including flights. Also seven nights at Ngala Lodge from £839 per person, based on two sharing a suite, including breakfast, return flights (Gatwick–Banjul), transfers and all taxes.
Call Gambia Experience on 0845 330 2087 or visit gambia.co.uk